Exploring Alaska: Valdez

Given the fact that there are only about 5000 miles of “highways” across Alaska, you would think we have driven them all by now. However, the 366-mile Richardson Highway is one I’ve barely explored. It runs south from Fairbanks, and dead-ends in Valdez on the eastern side of the state. And while Justin has been down to Valdez, I haven’t. So when a girlfriend (Alex) suggested we go, I found a pocket of time Labor Day weekend for the getaway. (Side note: I’m catching up on blog posts, so while I know you want to hear more about Justin’s climb up Kilimanjaro, you’ll have to wait. He’s not even home yet!).

First, a little context/background/history about Valdez. You might have heard about the remote fishing hotspot of Valdez because it’s made headlines many times over the years.  It was originally established as a port of entry for gold seekers. Probably more famously, it’s known as the terminus to the Trans-Atlantic Pipeline. Crude oil is transported south 800 miles from Prudhoe Bay to the ice-free port of Valdez to be exported out of the state. And the negative press came when the oil tanker Exxon Valdez ran aground in March 1989, spilling 11 million gallons of oil, the largest spill in North American history.

Alex & I camped at Blueberry Lake State Recreation Site, 30 minutes north of Valdez for 2 nights. Part of the draw to Valdez is driving over Thompson Pass. The pass is not particularly high at 2,600 feet, but it is sandwiched within 14,000-foot peaks and a high density of glaciers, plus is notorious for high winds and precipitation (which equals amazing waterfalls). Akin to a miracle, we had nothing but 360-degree views of the coastal Chugach Mountains during our trip! 

One of the glaciers in Thompson Pass—Worthington Glacier—has drive-up access. We walked among the mass of gravel and rock accumulated at the toe of the glacier for a better look, but honestly, it was probably the ugliest glacier I’ve seen close up! 

Once closer to Valdez, we spent a full day exploring. We walked the promenade, walked along Dock Point trail for more views of the port and drove outside of town to the Solomon Gulch Hatchery, which had spawning silver salmon returning for the season and determined Stellar sea lions (and gulls) feasting on the bounty. 

While all of that would have been good enough, the secret gem in Valdez is kayaking around Valdez Glacier Lake. Valdez Stay & Play rents kayaks for 3-hour self-guided tours. When Alex & I were first looking at the lake, we were thinking, hmm, we probably won’t need all 3 hours to tool around. To our delight, we squeezed every last minute out of the 3 hours because there are an unbelievable number of dramatic icebergs floating about beyond where you can see from the lakefront. This is because the glacier is in the middle of a major shedding phase—the glacier has pulled away from the mountains, causing chunks the size of cities to break off. On July 7, 2020, there was an epic calving event in which an entire ice shelf fell into the lake, breaking into thousands of icebergs. Some were shaped like tidal waves; others like giant ant hills. Most were larger than my log cabin. There were hues of blue I didn’t even know existed—jolly rancher, blue raspberry, electric, inky, neon, icy, radioactive, stormy grey. All I know is I definitely dropped into a slice of paradise, and highly recommend this excursion for anyone heading that way!!! We kayaked the 3 miles all way from the shore to the toe of the glacier (it definitely looked closer than it was …). From far away, the glacier “wall” looked peaceful. But when we got up close, it was menacing AF. Raw power frozen in time. Dripping. Cracking. Oozing. We got closer than we should have, for sure. What a wild experience for the books.  

We capped off the trip back north with a hike up Lion’s Head for a unique view of Matanuska Glacier. That’s another drive-up glacier accessible to Anchorage. Back in 2021, Justin and I toured the glacier in the winter. But it was really neat to see it from up above. 

Nature is neat, isn’t it?